BUT I DIGEST ... NORTH JERSEY VIETNAMESE SHOWDOWN

Round Two: Little Saigon’s Binh Duong Beatdown
By Kimberly Kaye

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Refresh yourself: Check out Round One

Oh sweet lord, the cold; that miserable, merciless, piercing cold, whipping around corners and down city streets in search of any millimeter of vulnerable exposed skin on which to perform its dance. I hate it.

To say that we needed our Round Two meal at Montclair’s Little Saigon to be a good one is an understatement. After three straight days of negative-five degree wind-chills and the onset of a mild case of Seasonal Affective Disorder (which I suppose I brought upon myself with that unnecessary comment about global warming in the Round One write up), the need for a piping hot bowl of pho and a nice pot of tea was downright palpable en route to Elm Street; I believe that the last words uttered by Ramon or myself before we left the vehicle were “Jesus, please don’t let dinner suck.” For the record, it most certainly did not.

To our great fortune, Ramon and I had ringside seats to an all-out culinary beatdown, with the bell ringing the moment we walked in the door. Montclair’s Little Saigon, the reincarnation of the former Nutley space which burned down several years ago, stepped into the ring with an appealingly open, airy space and a tropical color scheme so eye-catching it made Binh Duong look like it wore its dirty undies to the fight (not that I’m overly concerned with ambiance, but it’s amazing what a coat of paint can do).

The restaurant, a high ceilinged and roomy establishment with two dining areas, is low-key, accented by strings of blinking lights and an amusing, though somewhat inexplicable, fireplace at the back of its larger dining room. The staff is knowledgeable and appropriately conversational, and the easygoing vibe stretches to all corners -- you’re more likely to see the chef in her whites and apron clearing a table than hobnobbing with guests on a slow night.

Round Two started off strong, with the service delivering a technical knockout long before the food hit the table. Our server, though outwardly amused by my butchered pronunciations of his beautiful language, made sure to guide us through the meal by confirming the ingredients of ordered items, making meal suggestions, listing staff and diners’ favorite dishes, and teaching us which condiments went where (put the lime in your pho kiddies), all without condescension.  He also took the time to point out which entrees were best for beginners, which had been created for American palates, and which were truly authentic Vietnamese meals, a real plus for diners trying to learn a thing or two between bites. The menu, like Binh Duong’s, has over a hundred items -- when in doubt, let your server know what you’re in the mood for and ask what HE would eat … no one knows the food better than the people who work around it daily.

Even without the stellar service or warm vibe, the food put up a winning fight. From start to finish each item brought to the table beat out Binh Duong, particularly in the appetizer arena. Fried vegetable dumplings arrived crisp and grease-free, and were a surprisingly light and addictive starter. The cool summer rolls characteristic of Vietnamese cuisine were executed better than at Binh Duong on our particular visit, with a better distribution of tender shrimp and a more balanced ratio of veggies to noodles (though Binh Duong’s prominently featured fresh herbs were missed).

And the pho? Little Saigon’s was the clear winner. A savory broth rich in flavor and accompanied by tender rare beef, DIY basil and lime, and fresh bean sprouts -- I would have slurped this down even if there was tripe in the bowl. Our entrees, including the house-recommended grilled lemongrass chicken with fresh scallion, and a hearty beef in satay sauce, held their own as well. Again Binh Duong almost prevailed with its use of spices and fresh herbs, but the tenderness of Little Saigon’s meats ultimately tipped the scales in their favor. And on that brutally cold night, our waiter’s recommendation of warm tapioca with bananas and coconut milk was a sweet finish to a solid meal.

Categorically speaking, Little Saigon took the fight unanimously with its superior service, mood, and food. Though prices at Binh Duong were consistently lower, Little Saigon’s food was, for several reasons, just more satisfying. The restaurant also has that little something extra -- call it charisma, call it charm … you’ll find it at other local spots like Pat Thai -- which makes you want to cheer it on, even from the stands. How will it fare in Round Three against a Jersey City ethnic-eats heavyweight? We’ll let you know after the bell.

Little Saigon
19 Elm Street, Montclair, NJ
973.783.3914

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Comments

[Jerry]

There you go mentioning Pat Thai again! We don't need more business. Just stop it already. It's bad enough that New Jersey Monthly Magazine recently infiltrated us for their covert review, printing accolades in the February issue's featured article "Cheap Eats". I guess the new, larger Pat Thai Restaurant in Parsippany, NJ will be well utilized. Thanks Kimberly!

[Editor]

A-ha, that infamous new location you've so crytpically mentioned in the past -- when's it opening, Pat?

[Kimberly]

For the record (and not surprising, since I drop the name of my fav Southeast Asian spot every hour or so), its quite clear that NJ Monthly read my 2006 Best Meals round-up and is copying me. A shame that they must eat on my heals, but wonderful that they included a worthy restaurant!

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