By Kimberly Kaye
There is something unbelievably comforting about the heat of a fresh warm tortilla radiating across chilled fingertips on a cold night. And when said tortilla is filled with tender steak or seasoned pork and accompanied by savory salsa verde the effect is all the more soothing. I know this because I had the luck to spend our first truly wintry night of the season seated happily at one of the backyard-chic tables in Jersey City’s inspired little Mexican spot, Taqueria.
Located on the corner of Grand and Grove Streets, Taqueria is a BYO dream for those authentic-food aficionados who cannot tolerate half-rate Tex-Mex masquerading as the real thing. The restaurant operates on some simple commandments, best of which include: no fajitas, no nachos, no adobe plates or tacky uniforms, no fajitas ... did they mention no fajitas? Indeed, Taqueria has stripped down everything you have ever associated with the typical Mexican restaurant, from accent cacti to mariachi music, and left only delicious traditional fare and an easy, eclectic atmosphere conducive to good conversation (and if yours stalls out, there are Trivial Pursuit cards with pop-culture factoids on each table to get it going again).
The menu is wonderfully simple, an easy mix (and, if you want, match) of smaller items (tacos, flautas) and reasonably sized larger offerings (enchiladas, steak and onions) that can be snacked on alone or built into a full meal. Taqueria offers a wealth of authentic options not easily found at other restaurants, namely tamales (seasoned pork, chicken, or cheese and dough steamed inside a corn husk) and tostadas (choose from pork, chicken, or bean) with queso fresco (not Kraft cheddar cheese blend) -- and the only plated garnishes you’ll find are cilantro and lime.
There are also chuletas verdes (pork chops in green salsa), egg and chorizo burritas, breaded steak sandwiches; you can even pick from eight different kinds of taco including lamb, fish, salted beef, and cactus, all of which were more flavorful than any we have ever eaten before (though the steak, pork, and lamb took top honors at our table).
In truth, we were unable to complain about a single item that evening: cheese enchiladas with salsa were delicious and satisfying, a bean tostada with queso fresco and crema fresca disappeared in seconds, and the crispy chicken flautas made us instantly want to trade our bottle of wine for a 22oz. of Corona (with extra lime).
As if great food, a relaxed atmosphere, and a wall shrine dedicated to mullets (yes, the haircut) weren’t enough, there’s a great story behind the establishment as well. Several years ago, Mexican-American owner Phil and fiancé Andrea quit their mainstream jobs to open a simple taco truck, which served its authentic fare to a dedicated clientele on the street in front of City Hall. Word spread quickly, and the business eventually grew so popular that it progressed from its mobile home to the stationary space on the corner of Grove Street.
With establishments like this open for business, it is a mystery to me why anyone would brave the barrel-bottom cuisine served at psuedo-ethnic fast food joints like Taco Bell; as Taqueria boasts tacos filled with a surprising array of tender and flavorful options for just $2-$3, it’s certainly not about the price.
With no offense meant to the over two dozen Taco Bell patrons who are, no doubt, lamenting their recent decisions to patronize the “restaurant,” perhaps E. Coli is the food fates’ way of encouraging diners to get to Jersey City for their next Mexican fix. Or maybe I’m reading too much into that. But suffice to say, I am encouraging all diners to get to Taqueria as soon as that next craving for something spicy hits.
Taqueria
236 Grove St. (corner of Grand St.)
Jersey City
201.333.3220
Comments